Part 5

    Next day I grab the boss of the hostess in his collar and confess my annoyance. With much understanding he listens to me and also organizes that I get a normal bungalow. Again everything seems to be normal. Now I can sit on my own veranda enjoying the green view. Now and again a bird with a scarlet breast and a black back with a wonderful sound sits in the African tree.

    Just met two ladies from Groningen: Margaret and Janca. Last night we were sitting outside until the early hours. Supported by cockroach sounds we enjoy a drink while exchanging travelling stories. Shared our feelings about the travel-organisation and we decide not to participate in all those expensive excursions. They readily accept my invitation to join me on a trip round Southern Gambia.

    "Wear something that may get dirty" I advise them "and bring along a bottle of water". After thorough consideration: slippers and hiking shoes, a skirt or trousers, we hit the road. First to the central taxi-stand in Serrekunda. After full negotiations we have to change our route. From our first planned stop there is no transportation possible to the south. In the stuffed bus between the Gambians we tear down the red dusty road. This is real Africa. In "the middle of nowhere" the driver suddenly applies the brake. A golden discovery. A passenger has lost a car window.

    In a small village on our way we get out. A half-way stop. Accompanied by a large group of children we walk through the sandy small streets. Women sitting together plaiting hair. Typical Sunday's work. A complete hairdo will take you at least five hours. After a warm cola from the only fridge of the village we confiscated the next bush-taxi which passes by. There are no seats left for four women who also want to join.

    In Gunjur, where we have to change in order to arrive in the far south end, it is very crowded indeed. The whole little town is disordered. At the central village square we see huge crowds of people and between the heads we discover police and army. I manage peeping to the other side of the square through a sidestreet. When I stand at the corner of the street a huge caravan of fourwheeldrive-cars speed into town leaving much dust. Highly placed military and a camera team. In the twentieth car we see a tall man in African uniform waving to the crowd. The shouting increases: the president. Then still more dust and cars which end the row with a trailer equipped with an automatic gun. Better hide my camera my inner voice told me. The crowd sets off to the square and I am pushed forwards. Suddenly somebody says: "Sit down" and before I realize I am seated again on the grandstand, four rows behind the president. Dancers start their performance. A well-known artist sings a song about the Gambia and a representative of the local committee gives a speech. This is theatre and I sit on the front row.

    After all highly placed persons have withdrawn in the Mosque to pray I start looking for Margaret & Janca. Nowhere to be found. I decided to investigate for milksops do not disappear just like that in black Africa. A boy arrives with a note in his hand who also tells me that they have been looking for me and that Margaret has fallen and has hurt her knee. They have left with the bush-taxi to the beach which is situated three kilometres further down. I follow. Asking again and yes they have been spotted. "You are looking for two ladies? Properly dressed? And somebody making photos?" That must be them. At a distance very clear to recognize. What a relief to meet again. They have been very worried.

    Via Birkama and three bush-taxis heading again towards the hotel. They experienced the day of their lives. An excursion to South Gambia for an amount of 30 Dalasi while the same trip organised will cost at least 495 Dalasi. As extra we even met the president.

    Yesterday I received two letters. One with the "important message" about my luggage. The other I only have looked at it quickly. After some research it seems that not the brother has called but Yahya himself. Hell, he has turned up and is at his brother's. I do not have to go to Fatoto in East Gambia anymore to look for him. Will eveything end up well?

    In the evening at 21.30: there it is my backpack. After four days. No suspicious odours can be smelled. How long can a vacuum packed salty herring still be good by a temperature of 35 degrees? Unpack fast and check everything. Yet I throw away the herring but the cheese is still in good shape, the knitting pins, the small balls of wool, the instruction books, liquorice, rolling tobacco and cigarette papers, clothes, the other presents, everything is still there. Reason to call the telephone number on the note: 'Yahya?'
    'Yes' the happy acknowledgment sounds.
    'Liesbet where are you?'


    be continued



    More information:
    Map of Africa and more information:
    Map of Gambia and more information:



    More travelstories from Africa:
    An tour through West Africa
    On the motor from north to south



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